The ultimate detail: the travettos
And we end the travettos the Capuchin leg (the opening of the sleeve on your forearm).
Originally, the purpose of travettos was to strengthen this part of the tab when the handle was opened for ironing.
Since this is an operation that can only be made by hand, it was quickly abandoned the early industrialization of textile manufacturing. So that’s how she became a retail purist and a symbol of “hand-made”.
To give you an idea, installing 420 travettos (two per shirt) will need at least 40 hours, just for this detail…
It is easily understood why the big brands have “forgotten” as soon as they were able, the number of hours would be disproportionate on thousands of shirts to assemble…
Like the Milanese buttonhole is a rare finish in ready-to-wear. And I weigh my words, unless you have a minimum of 240 euro budget for a shirt.
Fred, so we are extremely proud to offer this detail in this price range , and we are not ashamed to face historically known brands for their shirts.
High finishes of range “Made in France”
Fred made the courageous decision to make his shirt in France, in a beautiful workshop of Normandy. This brings him close communication with the seamstresses in order to push the details thoroughly.
When Fred revised its range of shirts, there are plenty of finishes on which he is a little loose,which is not usually found together all that on shirts over 200 euros.
There is obviously the French seams
But they reach here quite a degree of fineness and sharpness (3 mm wide!).
At no time does the seam puckering, everything is very clean. Besides, at that level, the joint seams underarm is perfectly executed.
The reinforcing swallow pentagonal
Unable to speak shirt premium not to mention the reinforcement swallow pentagonal , in a cotton twill Thomas Mason , with two well-known initials embroidered on it.
Remember, it aims to strengthen the joint between the front and back of the shirt.
A fineness of incredible seam (8-9 points cm)
Short technical figures for the most meticulous of you: it is between 8 and 9 points per centimeter, which puts this shirt in the upper basket.
Note also that the seams of the collar and cuffs are very close to the edge, which enhances the elegant look of the shirt.
In immaculate pearl buttons
Fred has paid much attention since the buttons is a beautiful pearl Mother of Pearl Australian,without a shadow of imperfection, perfectly homogeneous, even the back button.
It is also an expensive finish: polyester buttons cost is a few tens of cents on a shirt, while it is more euros on a room with mother of pearl buttons, without laying at that.
Note that they are slightly concave in the center to protect their mounting frictions of daily life or the drum of your washing machine. So if you look at the profile button, you will not see the son as they are protected by the relief.
In this regard, they are sewn Zampa Di Gallina, a well known finish if you follow BonneGueule for a little while. The rendering has the advantage of being as strong as on a seam cross, but with a little twist aesthetic further.
This sounds simple words like that, but that’s the kind of detail that French workshops are not at all (or not particularly want to do), and Fred had to insist for … three years to be satisfied with the result .
Other features that you should know, the buttons are on queue (= they are slightly raised to facilitate the button). Again, the operation is made entirely by hand, without machine.
Ah yes, the last buttonhole is, in addition to being red, horizontal! Nothing was left to chance.
A Slim Fit
Regarding the cut of the dress shirt, it was a huge shopping site (the last patronage of June 2015, so it is new), as Fred was manic at the cuts.
His hobby office even almost threw in the towel to his face very high requirements to the millimeter! And as he rightly says, “it’s hard to move things on as small values”.
Besides that, he did not fail to try prototypes to customers who spend in store, “to advance the science.” They sometimes reported that it was a prototype, sometimes not to observe their reactions. And he noted everything.
For example, he particularly cared for the small sizes refining sleeve at the armhole and biceps. And as always, he “field tested” its new patronage to its customers. The success was immediate, so much so that it became the basis of patronage.
It’s a shirt to be worn in the pants, so it has a sufficient length to not get out when you move or sit.
Finally, around the wrist was not chosen at random: Fred measured that of many of his client, a compromise between wanting adjusted wrist and ease for wearing the watch (17.5 cm on average!).
So we have: very demanding requirements with the model office + significant number of fittings on customers = cut very elaborate.
In terms of how to choose size, the sizing is again very classic. If in doubt, please refer to the size chart.
This is a cotton twill 100/2, balance between finesse and ease of ironing. Since its weaving “diagonal” twill wrinkle unless poplin.
Finally, given the dominance of light blue, there is no difficulty in wearing the shirt with a blue or gray suit. The silkiness of the material will make it particularly elegant to match a textured tie, to make a nice contrast.
How to wear a shirt with cutaway collar?
You now know the motive foot-holes, and all the nuance that can subtly bring to an outfit.Here, the shade effect is reinforced by the cutaway collar more rare, it easily brings a touch of originality
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